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WHAT ARE BUILT-IN GUTTERS?
Built-in gutters, also referred to as “box gutters” are considered a concealed roof drainage system. Since they are not readily visible, they typically don’t alter the historic character of buildings and don’t detract from or conceal decorative cornice details. Unfortunately, being unseen often results in neglect. The simplest form of maintenance is keeping them clear of debris. This is necessary for any gutter system to perform its duty, but with built-ins, trapped, standing water can lead to a shorter life and very costly repairs.
Built-in gutters may be the most complicated system in the building envelope, yet they are also the most elusive when you start searching for information about them. Sometimes called Yankee gutters, box gutters or even Philadelphia gutters, it’s no wonder they remain a mystery to many. Built-in gutter systems are actually built into the cornice structure and drain through internal or external leaders. They are not readily visible from the ground, further lending to the mystery of their design and function. Because they are integrated into the structure, built-in gutter linings that fail will cause extensive damage to the cornice and sometimes also the interior of the structure.
Built-in gutters, today, are typically constructed in the same manner as they have been since the 18th century. They are wooden boxes with bottoms sloped toward the outlets where water is drained to leaders, or conductor pipes, that channel the water away from the building. The first gutters in this style were actually troughs or box gutters, carved out of wood and rubbed with linseed oil or painted to protect the wood. Corners and seams were bonded with lead wedges. Needless to say, maintenance was critical to their success or failure. Later, the advent of sheet lead allowed for broader gutters, as linings covered the wooden troughs. By the end of the century, copper became available in the U.S. and a popular choice for gutter linings because of its durability and the functional nature of the material in a sheet-metal application.
INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
The most common sign of water penetration is peeling paint and decay in the wood soffit under the gutter. Other signs are dark stains and mildew or deterioration of masonry. Water infiltration may be visible in attic spaces or areas beneath the gutters where plaster and other interior finishes evidence water damage. The sooner a leak or area vulnerable to failure is addressed, the smaller the scope and cost of repairs. Cleaning out leaves and debris from gutters as often as necessary is essential for durability and proper performance.
Careful inspection by a competent roofer is critical to the longevity and success of the system. He or she will look for defects, such as localized damage caused by fallen limbs or other debris, cracks from expansion and contraction at joints or folds, or pinholes from corrosion. Roofing tar and other bituminous compounds should never be used to patch, repair or coat gutter linings. It makes the condition of the gutter indeterminable, corrodes metal linings, will crack and fail quickly, and cannot be removed without destroying the lining. Ice damming is not uncommon in the winter but should not be removed with sharp tools for obvious reasons.
Maintenance
A majority of built-in gutters are lined with formed metal. The earliest metal used for the lining is terne-plate. Terne, an alloy of lead and tin, was applied over sheet iron, then later, steel. This gutter lining material needs protection from corrosion. Just like tin roofs, regularly applying an oil-based paint was the traditional method of maintenance.
Another issue is the soldered joints, where sections of the gutter meet and forms a seam. The expansion and contraction of the metal during temperature changes results in failure at the weakest point–the seams. Expansion joints are not found in the sheet-metal gutter linings. When a leak is finally discovered, the seams are usually just patched with tar (roofing cement)–which tends to be a messy, temporary repair.
Unfortunately, a majority of these gutter systems have suffered from the lack of proper repairs and maintenance. Quite often, there is also damage to the eaves structure below that requires the skills of an experienced carpenter to repair.
Restoration
Restoring these gutter systems, even if there is no damage to the wood below, can be quite expensive. Trying to find someone with the knowledge and metalworking ability could also be a challenge. Soldering in some patches might be effective for someone with basic skills, but complete relining with terne requires a highly skilled (and expensive) craftsman. The cost of relining the gutters with copper could be close to the amount one would pay for a new luxury car.
Although it is best practice to restore metal-lined gutters with metal, the availability of experienced contractors and the high cost might prevent some homeowners from making needed repairs. This could allow leaking gutters to cause extensive damage to their home, significantly escalating the cost when repairs are finally made.
If the metal gutter lining isn’t too far gone, it might be able to be preserved with an elastomeric coating system. There’s another method of restoring built-in gutters that has been successful, when installed with care. This involves applying a waterproof roofing membrane over the existing gutter lining. These membranes are usually either EPDM (rubber) or modified bitumen and are manufactured for “flat” roof installations. Correct installation includes properly adhering the membrane and seams, correctly terminating the edges and installing the downspout outlets so they don’t leak.
Built-in gutters, the unseen roof drainage system, was specifically chosen to be installed when the home was built, thus is part of the original historic character. I always try to encourage preserving original elements, even though it might be easier to eliminate the old method for something new and inexpensive.